Sculptor John Chamberlain’s “Hawkfliesagain,” 2010

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo’s Spring 13 collection for Comme des Garçons was a graceful car wreck. The kind replayed in slow-mo to a screeching violin concerto on film.

 

John Chamberlain’s “Gangster of Love,” 1985

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reminiscent of the late John Chamberlain’s crushed-car sculptures, misplaced arms, legs, and lapels collided together with what seemed like a trunk load of ruched, folded, and crushed fabric to arrive at garments which were the farthest thing from a fatal accident. Quite the contrary, the body’s parts were strategically and purposefully reconfigured, with an intellectual backbone holding it up.

 

John Chamberlain Crushed-car Sculptures

 

 

 

 

John Chamberlain’s “Hanging Herm,” 1974

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Headpieces consisting of crushed-metal pile-ups were made in collaboration with artist Graham Hudson and worthy of a halting skid-stop from break-neck speed. Consider me but-a-chalk-outline on the pavement. The overall presentation was to-die-for.

 

John Chamberlain’s “Awesomemeatloaf,” 2011

 

 

 

Photos of Comme des Garçons Spring 13 Runway Collection @ Style.com. For more photos and info on John Chamberlain, click here. For more info about Graham Hudson, click here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Always innovative and experimental, creating tech fabrics with an exquisitely delicate hand, Christopher Kane is not a stranger to irony. These are the kind of unique pieces I could keep forever and that would still be F’in ‘forward’ for years to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sickly-sweet pastel pink and yellow concoctions with cartoonish nut-bolt-screw fasteners, complete garments made of candy-like ‘Shrinky Dink’ bows that coordinated back to tooled biker jackets, and ‘applique’ of grandma’s-lace-doily scraps and black duct tape all had a Frankenstein-esque quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christopher Kane, forever the mad scientist, has turned out yet-another monster concept. He remains one of my favorite London designers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos from Christopher Kane Spring 13 Runway collection on Style.com.

Yinka Shonibare’s ‘Water,’ 2010

 

Burberry Prorsum, Spring 2012 Runway

 

Shoes @ Opening Ceremony

 

J.W. Anderson top @ Net-a-Porter.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like an elephant at the watering hole, …a mosquito on a host at a nighttime barbeque, …a wedding crasher at the open bar—I’ve been drinking up all I can of this season’s tribal theme. It’s going to be my colorful, easy, chic go-to look for summer.

In the meantime, with an intent to soak up all things tribal, I came across the works of Yinka Shonibare, who exhibited at the Frieze Art Fair in New York last weekend. The artist’s message and social commentary is clearly in direct opposition to the frivolity and superficiality of fashion trends. However, the ii’s couldn’t help being mesmerized by the irony and energy his pieces convey, while finding inspiration in their multiple layers of visual stimulation.

 

Yinka Shonibare’s ‘Food Faerie,’ 2009

 

 

Proenza Schouler bag @ Barneys New York

 

Boxing Kitten dress @ Urban Outfitters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve always been attracted to the colorful graphic African tribal fabrics, and the ties and folds of the traditional garments worn by women on the streets of New York. The stiffer, waxed texture of the fabric, and mix of pattern/print, naturally lends itself to an effect that is both graphically vibrant and rich in depth.

Ironically enough, I learned that these were originally Indonesian designs brought to Africa by the Dutch via colonialism. While Yinka Shonibare channels that particular historical confusion to enhance his social statement, one can’t deny the added dimension it brings to a fashion story.

Boxing Kitten is an up-and-coming brand that utilizes these fabrics in a fresh way to create young, fun, fashion-forward silhouettes. Regardless of the beat a girl walks to, the drum circle she plays with, or the size of her straw pocketbook, the styles have a wide range of appeal.

 

 

Holst & Lee necklace

 

Issey Miyake belt @ Farfetch.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tribal prints coordinate nicely back to snakeskin, raffia, wood, animal print, and woven leather elements. The addition of a slick and polished item or two will keep the look less-literal, more modern, and city-safari friendly.

 

Miniskirt @ Boxingkitten.com

 

Marni clutch @ Barneys New York

 

Woven bangle @ Urban Outfitters

 

Yinka Shonibare’s ‘Boy on a Globe,’ 2010

 

Charlotte Olympia wedge @ Bergdorf Goodman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you’re planning to go TRIBAL and like to be prepared, the items shown here are just a few suggested ‘supplies’ for your trip.

To find a drum circle near you and get your beat on, go to http://drumcircles.net.

Photos of Yinka Shonibare’s work @ http://www.yinkashonibarembe.com and http://www.stephenfriedman.com.

 

 

Moschino Cheap & Chic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apparently, one can never have too many eyes on their fashion, eh?

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

…OR hands.

 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OR bird heads?… (If your name is Bjork, Ozzy, or Nicki, and have front row seats.)

 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, these ii’s were certainly popping with all the Modern Art references hanging around the Fall ’12 collections. And, a girl DOES crave a healthy dose of irony and hyperbole to get her through the season!

 

Manish Arora

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Manish Arora’s smokin’ lips whispered to Warhol, while a gang of hoodied street artists made a lot of visual noise as they tagged the mural backdrop.

 

Manish Arora

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With guns out, having hit the pavement running, some fresh tags were seen sneaking around at Be & D…Perhaps looking for Banksy?

 

Be & D

 

Be & D

 

 

Julien David gave a nod to POP Art with ‘killer fashion’ that objectified a kitchen knife.

 

Julien David

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anna Molinari put the ‘WOW’ and ‘JOLIE’ in livin’ LARGE, loud, and pretty at Blumarine.

 

Blumarine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Graffiti got Gaultier’d…or was it vice versa? Regardless, his looks rocked more fur and spray paint than a PETA protest, and still managed to scream luxury.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Art was ‘off the wall’ and flat-out on the move at Comme des Garçons. However, given the size, structure and restrictive nature of the garments, a surreptitious ‘exit through the gift shop’ would seem highly unlikely and downright hazardous for the wearer.

 

Comme des Garçons

 

Nicholas Kirkwood spun tall tails about the girl who walked in his shoes.

 

Nicholas Kirkwood

 

A typewriter fashioned into a novel notion at Mary Katrantzou wrote a note to ‘Surrealism.’

 

Mary Katrantzou

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DVF dialed it up.

 

Diane Von Furstenburg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Imagery from Peter Pilotto’s garments channeled japanese light trucks, putting high beams on the chassy driving it.

 

Peter Pilotto

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whether or not it’s on YOU, art will always be on the street. To get your eyes on it and head around it now, check out the following…

 

Deer Dana 'Cindy Crawford' t-shirt

 

Jeremy Scott for Linda Farrow eyewear

 

Keith Haring Exhibit at Brooklyn Museum

 

"Exit Through the Gift Shop" interview with Banksy

 

 

*Pre-order Be&D sneakers for a limited time @www.modaoperandi.com.
*Deer Dana t-shirts available at Opening Ceremony.
*Jeremy Scott/Linda Farrow “X-ray Vision” eyewear @Zappos.com.
*”Keith Haring: 1978-82″ at the Brooklyn Museum through July 8.
*For more photos and info on Banksy’s documentary “Exit Through The Gift Shop,” go to www.banksyfilm.com.
*Fall 2012 Runway photos from Style.com.

 

 

 

As much as I do love the purity and intensity of what is clearly either black or white, it seems the subtle nuances (a fleeting emotion, mood, vulnerability) of a story can only be truly expressed through its shades of grey.

So it goes that the complexities of a city girl are best told in the grey garden of a concrete belle. For her story, check out the most recent issue of Odalisque Magazine.

Photography by Ellinor Stigle. Styling by Kelly Abbate. Make-up and Hair by Virginia Linzee. Model is Marine/ONE Management.

Comme des Garçons

 

Though I’m always wary of too much tricked-out fashion (the over-designed kind that screams ‘VICTIM!’), let it be said that these ii’s DO love a good trick every once in a while. And it appears that there were plenty of designers in the mood to turn them on the FALL 12 runways.

 

3.1 Phillip Lim

Marc Jacobs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For Fall 2012, examples of trompe l’oeil ranged from the outrageous to the seriously sophisticated. Many designers used panels to create a visual affect that lent a slimming quality to the garment and, hence, to the woman’s figure. Often the illusion bordered on caricature. Regardless, all varieties were derivative of one word, ‘clever!’—give or take a few exclamation points.

 

Balmain

Erdem

Kevork Kiledjian

Balenciaga

Rodarte

The Row

Etro

Elie Saab

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Always on the lookout for an ironic twist, or something to satiate my voracious sense of humor, I certainly got an eye-full this season. So much so that my laugh lines were camped out overnight awaiting a glimpse of the next showing.

So, stay tuned! And expect to see more fashion trompe-l’oeil-ing through the streets soon.

All photos are from Fall 2012 designer collections @ Style.com.

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ii’s have seen a lot in terms of fashion. So, it’s fair to say that it really takes something quite impressive to attract a stare from over here. These are the things seen at New York Fashion Week that left me temporarily blinded…

AN ARCHETECTURAL KIMONO, AN OBI-INSPIRED IT-SKIRT, AND THE GENERAL ASIAN-WARRIOR-OF-THE-FUTURE VIBE AT PROENZA SCHOULER…

 

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P.S., THEIR MOTOCROSS-BIKER BOOTS…

 

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A BALLSY BASEBALL JACKET BY PRABAL GURUNG THAT ‘GOT GAME’ IN THE BIG LEAGUES…

 

Prabal Gurung

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE CARGO JODHPUR PANT TUCKED INTO THIGH-HIGH BOOTS, ZEBRA SWEATERS, AND AN OVERALL COLONIALIST SAFARI THEME AT ALTUZARRA…

 

Altuzarra

Altuzarra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE STUNNING IRONIES– A DELICATE TROMPE L’OEIL TREATMENT COMBINED WITH A CRISP WHITE WOVEN –AT ALEXANDER WANG…

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A LARGER-THAN-LIFE WRAP PARTY AND THE MULTI-BUCKLE PILGRIM SHOES AT MARC JACOBS…

 

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

UNIQUE CHIC DETAILS AT THAKOON–A LACQUER TREATMENT, A PAPER BAG CINCH WAIST, AND A SHAG THAT LEAVES YOU GLOWING…

 

Thakoon

Thakoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A DELICATE VOLUMINOUS SLEEVE PAIRED WITH A FUR BIB AT THE ROW…

 

The Row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DOO.RI STEPPING OUT OF HER DRAPE ZONE…

 

Doo.Ri

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BOOTS AT RODARTE…

 

Rodarte

Rodarte

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A LEATHER AND KNIT CROCHETED CHEVRON DRESS WITH A TOUCH OF TROMPE L’OEIL BY RAG & BONE…

 

Rag & Bone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A QUIRKY MIX OF PATTERN, PRINT, AND TEXTURE AT SUNO…

 

Suno

Suno

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THAT SCULPTURAL DROP-SHOULDER SLEEVE AT A DETACHER…

 

A Détacher

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TECH FABRICATIONS MIXED WITH LACE AT ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH…

 

Alexandre Herchcovitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A ‘SIMPLE’ POOF SLEEVE AT WES GORDON…

 

Wes Gordon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, please excuse me while I catch a quick wink and work on getting my sights back for London!

 

 

All photos are from Fall 2012 Runway collections @ Style.com.

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